Saturday 10th April We started the day with a change in luck; Hamish’s bag had shown up! After being told it would be delivered Friday night and waiting up till midnight outside our hostel in the middle of Causeway Bay - it never showed. Consequently, Hamish spent the first night sleeping in his clothes as his sleeping bag was in the pack.
We then decided to explore HK Island. We hopped on the MTR to Central and wandered around. From Lou's point of view, nothing had really changed but for Hamish this was all pretty new. We made a point of going to the HSBC building to rub the Lions. Its believed by rubbing them it will bring luck and prosperity – this would prove invaluable!
Another excursion on the tourist path was Stanley market; we got on the bus and spent the next 20 mins hurtling around tight corners on the edges of cliffs in ancient creaky buses. The journey took us through Aberdeen, Repulse Bay and Chung Hom Kok – with the addition of a few new buildings, all looked the same to Lou. We hit Stanley and the rain started – as we weren’t buying anything we didn’t scour the market in much detail. Apart from this jeweled number.
We were also pleased to find that our previous employers are alive and kicking in other parts of the world...
No journey would be complete in HK without a ride on the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour to Kowloon side. Kowloon has developed a lot in recent years, especially catering for the 5 star hotels and boutique shops. We trekked up Nathan road, and refused countless invitations for getting suits made or for Rolex watches. Then on Lou’s insistence we went into the Peninsula Hotel in the hope of having high tea in one of the most amazing hotel lobbies in the world, but there was a line about 40 people long – and Hamish after learning they don’t serve protein shakes didn’t see the point in waiting to get little sandwiches that wouldn’t fill you up and a cup of tea.
After a quick shower and change, we headed out from our ‘quaint’ (read tiny and uncomfortable) hostel room in Causeway Bay to Soho up the world’s longest escalator, starting in Central taking passengers up to Mid Levels. Hamish felt ripped off as the escalator was not a continuous journey but a series of small escalators rides called an escalator system. Lou got tired of listening to him complain about this.
There are massive amounts of bars and restaurants to choose from in Soho and we found that this is where all the foreigners in HK had been hiding. We found a bar playing the Crusaders game which made Hamish very happy, and ordered a couple of Tsing Taos, to sample the local brew.
Then we headed off to Dan Ryans – a Weller family tradition that now Hamish can say he’s part of. He especially loved wearing his bib….
Highlights: Hamish’s bag turning up and those potato skins from Dan Ryans – how do they make them so good 20 years on??? Lowlights: the weather – smoggy and colder than expected. Interesting fact: The mid levels escalator system (not a single escalator) is covers over 800 metres long and carries approx 55,000 people down into Central and back each day. Interesting fact: The MTR has 150 stations serving over 3.4m people per day. Interesting fact: The Peninsula Hotel has its own fleet of signature Rolls-Royces. These cars are painted in a distinctive shade of green known as "Peninsula green".
Sunday 11th April We decided to get out of the city today, heading to Lamma Island, about a 25 min ferry from HK Harbour. Lamma Island is famous for its seafood restaurants, big Power station and more peaceful atmosphere in contrast to hectic HK.
We caught the ferry to Yung Shue Wan and then walked over the hill to Sok Kwu Wan. It was a stinking hot day, and yet all the other Chinese on the same walk were wearing jeans and long sleeved tops. We were rocking singlets and shorts, so Hamish‘s guns attracted a few stares. Upon arriving in Sok Kwu Wan there are a multitude of “fine dinning” establishments. We chose Rainbow Seafood restaurant for lunch, great seafood, although Hamish wasn’t too fussed. Luckily fried rice was on the menu….
Another must do on the tourist list was the Peak Tram. Unfortunately half of the tourists in HK that day also decided that this was a good idea. We finally made it to the top to find that the fog and pollution combined does not make for good viewing (Lou showed Hamish a photo online to show him what its meant to look like (which we think is photoshopped to make it look clearer).
One of the best sights in HK, is of the city at night. We chose to see this from the Star Ferry Harbour Cruise, about an hours round trip up and down the Harbour. The Symphony of Lights show was pretty spectacular, heaps of the big skyscrapers have allowed their lights to be turned on and off and have lasers attached to their buildings to produce a show in time to music. We were the only foreigners on the boat without massively expensive cameras taking glamour shots.
Highlights: Seeing a side of HK that’s not the concrete jungle, and the harbour at night – unbeatable. Lowlights: Our camera does not take good night shots and battery died mid tour. Interesting fact: Peak Tram began operation in 1888. Interesting fact: Less than 25% of the territory's landmass is developed and about 40% of the remaining land area is reserved as parks and nature reserves.
Monday 12th April This was Macau day. We got up early to get one of the first ferries to Macau (about an hours ferry ride), we were again amazed at the bolshiness of the little Chinese women who were insistent on being the first ones off the boat to get to their casinos.
We took advantage of the free shuttle buses from the terminal to their respective casinos, we chose the Venetian, as this is one of the newer casinos to open in Macau. To say that its big is an understatement – this place is massive, we couldn’t find the exit and our survival instincts kicked in and resorted to following the fake canal complete with gondolas (Bear Grylls always said to follow water to find your way out….)
We attempted to work out the Macau bus system and failed, so hopped in a taxi to get to the ruins of St Paul’s. This Cathedral was constructed between 1582 to 1602 by the Jesuits and was Asia’s largest Cathedral, before it destroyed by fire in a typhoon in 1835.
Next to the ruins are the remains of the military fortress built from 1617-1626 known as Monte Forte. These were amazing to see, especially as HK does not seem to relish its history, and instead favours ripping down old buildings to build newer and better ones.
We then went on to see the other Portuguese influences on the island – Although it was handed back to the Chinese in 1999, all the street names are still in Spanish, and there seems to be a lot of Catholic influence. We couldn’t pick any Portuguese people though.
There was definitely a split between the glitzy glamorous side to Macau with the Casinos and hotels and then the historic side with the slums. We headed back to HK and through immigration, adding another stamp to the passport.
In search of a good meal, we hit up Grappa’s in Pacific Place for some good Italian, another Weller family favourite.
Highlight: The fake Venetian city inside the Casino. The sky looks almost real! Lowlight: Embarrassing moment – When walking down from Monte Forte, an Asian couple asked for a photo which we agreed to thinking they wanted a photo of both of them together (which we fully understand as travelers as you can see most of our photos are of either of us not both!). We were quickly corrected as the woman wanted a photo just with Hamish and then the guy wanted a photo just with Lou – very strange.
Interesting fact: Macau pharmacies are among the most trusted in the world where you can get medicine and no fakes…see above
Tuesday 13th April D Day – will Hamish be accepted into the UK, or will he be sent home and appear on the next episode of UK Border Patrol?
We had an 8am flight to Shanghai, and then were surprised to find out that we weren’t able to wait in the transit lounge for our connecting flight to London, we had to enter China. With signs plastered everywhere saying foreigners require visas to enter China and hordes of government officials patrolling the airport we rocked up to immigration. After a bit of explaining in simple English we managed to enter China. Then we wandered around Shanghai airport that is ridiculously big trying to find our gate. Eventually Lou asked a guard who unlocked this secret door in the wall and led us through to our gate. I’m not sure what you are meant to do if you are connecting from Shanghai but this method seemed to work for us!
Delays and more delays meant that our 12 and half hour flight turned into a 14-hour marathon. Word of warning – do not fly China Eastern Airlines on a long haul flight. There were no big movie screens, the food was awful, and we were over it very quickly. BUT we made it, and we made it through immigration (must have been the lucky Lion statue in HK). We met James at the airport and caught the tube to Hammersmith, very relieved, tired, and hungry.
Highlights: Hamish walking through UK immigration!! Lou explaining from behind the red line why to let me into China – “He Transit – Go to London” - 4x Lowlights: The flight – every part of it. Interesting fact: Booking a flight on the 13th April would prove a genius stroke of planning with less than 36 hours later the whole of the UK airspace being shut down for the first time in history causing major disruption. Thousands of flights were disrupted costing the airline industry over $200 million USD a day. | 
